THE WORKSHOP – DIY 1/6 machete by Paul Benson

Today you’re going to learn from my main man Paul Benson how to fashion a made from scratch machete for your wee plastic army. Break out your tiny tools and follow along!

– Knives

THAT’S NOT A KNIFE, THIS IS A KNIFE.
Missed out on the ThreeA Jungler Ranger Grunt and then regretted having done so ever since, so I have kitbashed my own.  Although the camouflaged kit I have used tends to suggest temperature forest rather than tropical jungle.  I thought he still needed a machete to aid  movement through heavy vegetation, ground clearance, cutting wood for fires etc.

The design I went for is similar in design and size to the British Army Bushcraft machete.
The materials I used were 3mm sheet balsa, 1mm sheet styrene and 3mm Grosgrain and linen cloth.  The paints were a Humbrol acrylic aerosol spray, Games Workshop acrylic paints and a MIG weathering powder.
To make the machete the outline was drawn on a piece of sheet balsa and cut out with a sharp scalpel.  It was then shaped with a scalpel and then with sandpaper.  An edge to the blade was made with fine emery paper.  The blade was then painted with super glue to harden the surface several times.  Sand it down again to get a very smooth surface. The hand end of the machete was then used as a stencil to draw two grips onto 1mm styrene sheet.  Cut them out and glue in place.  “Screw” holes were drilled with a scalpel blade.  To give the impression of wood grain I scratched the styrene handles with a scalpel blade point.
To make a sheath of the correct shape and size, I used the machete as a stencil to draw out the form on styrene sheet. The shape was then cut out with scissors.  I’d never suggest that I’m very good at sewing.  Buttons tend to be my limit. So assembly of the sheath was not done with finely sewn lines, I used super glue!! Use what you’re comfortable with.
The first step was to cover the styrene shape I had made.  The fine linen material I used was wrapped round completely with a slight overlap and then cut.  A few dabs of glue here to hold it fast.  Where straight lines were needed, the linen was painted with super glue which hardened it and made it very easy to cut clean.  Games Workshop super glue is superb for this job, as the pot it is in comes with a small brush.  The back of the sheath won’t be very neat, but no one should see it anyway. A second piece of linen was used as the front of the sheath and again glued around the back as neatly as possible.  To create an edge to the sheath where the machete would go in, the linen was folded over and glued inside. The top part of the sheath was painted with super glue and cut neatly.  A short loop of Grosgrain was looped through one half of a 1/6 side release and glued behind. At this point you can clean it up by cutting any loose threads.
The webbing body strap was 3mm Grosgrain cut generously (it would be cut to the correct length later once on the figure) and looped through the other half of the side release.  The sheath could just have easily been attached to the loop webbing on the figure.
The machete was then sprayed with Humbrol matt black acrylic aerosol paint.  When dry the blade was dry brushed with Games Workshop boltgun metal acrylic paint. Unfortunately I was too vigorous and knocked of a little of the blade at the end. The handle was painted with GW scorched brown and when dry further dry brushed with scorched brown mixed GW skull white. The webbing strap and sheath were painted with GW catachan green acrylic paint mixed with a little GW chaos black. It was then dry brushed with catachan green mixed with skull white.  To highlight the weave on the webbing and sheath, they were both finally dry brushed very lightly with skull white by itself.  To dirty up the sheath dry mud MIG weathering powder was mixed with a little GW skull white and dabbed onto the sheath, this would match what I had done to the clothing of the kitbashed grunt I had made the machete for.  To add a little bit of rust to the machete I used GW dark flesh lightly dabbed on with a small piece of natural sponge.  The technique is all about trial and error, for example I dabbed the piece of sponge (around 4cm by 4cm cut from a bigger sponge) into the paint and then dabbed it onto paper.  When I got a random pattern of small randomly shaped marks I was happy with, I applied the sponge to machete blade.  Where I need more marks I rotated the sponge and dabbed again.  I did the same technique on the sheath to add a little visual interest, although rust from the machete blade may well have got onto the sheath anyway.
We hope you enjoyed this episode of The Workshop. Thanks Paul putting together for us. Now get out there and customize something!

We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs you’re working on! Send us a shot of your latest custom work with a brief discription to radtoyreview@gmail.com. 

Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated whenever we post new Workshops and epic toy reviews!

Until next time!


THE WORKSHOP – DIY 1/6 shotgun by Paul Benson

Well this is a first. As I worked on getting the Paul Benson penned (Mouse9090 on many-a-forum) MK2 Square workshop together for today, to my pleasant surprise I received a SECOND tutorial from him without warning a few moments ago. As the 2nd was practically ready to post, I decided to go ahead and toss it up! I’ll post Pauls 1st(now 2nd) tutorial early next week! 

Thanks Paul for going above and beyond, I really appreciate it! 

– Knives

SHOTGUN BANG, WHAT’S UP WITH THAT THANG?
I like the shotgun that comes with the ThreeA Grunt, but I wanted to make something a bit more compact, something for close contact, maneuvering in tight spaces, ‘breaching’ etc.  I went for the ubiquitous side-by-side doubled barrelled shotgun.
For equipment I’ve made for figures before, they tend not to be completely scratch built and I tend to use bits from my 1/6 kitbash ‘bits box’ where possible.  For this shotgun I would need a trigger with guard as they are a pain to make as I’ve learned before.  I know it is a double barrelled shotgun, but a single trigger will suite just fine for firing both barrels.
 
The main tools I used are shown below.
The little saw is the best thing I ever bought for this kind of work.  Nail files are really useful, they give you a flat surface to work on.  I also use various grades of sand paper and emery paper.  The glue, as shown, is a thin super glue that can be obtained from Games Workshop vendors. The great thing about it is, it comes with a little brush inside which gives you loads of control.  Over balsa wood it can be painted with the brush to give you a really hard surface to work with further.  Super glue is also a really good filler for narrow gaps.  Rather than craft knives I use scalpels. Blades can be changed very easily and come in lots of shapes.  Although I have fine drills, very often I use a small pointed scalpel blade to made small holes by simply rotating the blade.
STAGE 1
In the planning stage I looked at a bunch of shotguns online for reference and to get a feel for the variety of design and the detail in the engineering.  What I end up with sometimes turns out a little different to how it started in my mind. Which is fine, it’s often just a bit of trail and error.
I did find a section of a rifle with trigger and guard in my bits box and a shoulder stock (which I ended up not using!).  Got together the ‘strip styrene’ (it is called this by the firm that make it, ‘Evergreen Scale Models) which I thought I might use.  I also used some sheet styrene not shown.
STAGE 2
Some in progress pieces are shown below.
The two barrels were made from 5mm styrene tube.  They were glued together and thin strip of 3mm semi circular styrene, turned over and glued along the top.  As shotguns often break to load, I cut off a 4 mm section of the barrels to make the housing for the firing pin mechanism. The two short tubes making this section were then filled with 3mm styrene rod.
The part of the rifle from the bits box, that included trigger and guard, was cut to receive the first part of the barrels as a first fit.  I did not set out to make an engineered masterpiece and therefore it will not actually hinge, but as you can see in the next picture, further shaping of this section and the front stock has shown where the barrel could pivot.
The back stock is 10mm by 6mm rectangular hollow section styrene to which I have glued small pieces of sheet styrene to block it in.  An alternative stock could easily have been made of balsa wood.
The front stock is two pieces of 6mm by 2.5mm rectangular solid section styrene glue together and cut into the stock shape.  Along the bottom edge a strip of 3mm semi circular styrene was glued. I added a front sight and strikers, using 1mm sheet, cut and shaped with scissors.  Further sanding down and filling was done to complete the model and scratches were added to the front and back stock to give the impression of wear and tear.
STAGE 3
The shotgun was then washed in detergent to remove any grease marks and then sprayed with matt black acrylic paint.  I have never seen the need to buy an air brush and always use Humbrol acrylic aerosol paints to a give a base colour.
I tend to use Games Workshop acrylic paints which are very good and are easy to get hold of, either at a local store or online. They come in a range of both basic and very useful blended colours. They are kind to brushes as there is no need to use solvents for cleaning.  The names of the paints, I might as well use them, are referred to below.
The next stage was to paint the stocks.   I did this by dry brushing, a technique that would hopefully leave the wear and tear scratches darker. Dry brushing is a technique of wetting a brush with paint and then almost drying it with paper towel, then wiping it across the area you are working on. Keep going until you get the effect you need.
Firstly, I used Games Workshop Scorched Brown, then GW Dark Flesh, then GW Desert Yellow and finally GW Desert Yellow mixed with a little bit of GW Skull White.  The metal parts are dry brushed with GW Boltgun Metal.  Where surfaces might be more worn than others, more drybrushing can be applied.
A tether added for good measure and you’re good to go!
We hope you enjoyed this episode of The Workshop. Thanks Paul putting together for us. Now get out there and customize something!

We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs you’re working on! Send us a shot of your latest custom work with a brief discription to radtoyreview@gmail.com. 

Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated whenever we post new Workshops and epic toy reviews!

Until next time!