THE WORKSHOP – DIY Mini Bertie Custom (PART 2 of 5) by markovengine

We continue with part 2 of our 5 part tutorial series by markovengine! 

If you need to catch up:

Part 1 – DIY MINI BERTIE CUSTOM PAINT TUTORIAL

Enjoy!

– Knives

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PART 2 : PAINT BODY AND CREATE DECALS

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2-1
Now we need to tackle the base coat.  This will vary depending on the final look you’re going for. Since I’m doing a Deep Powder Bertie I went with a very light gray, almost white.

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2-2
Use the handles we made from extra model shell clippings hold your pieces and help you cover every bit. Bertie should look something like this when you’re done. Let it dry before moving to the next step.

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2-3
To get the blue-green base color on shoulders and lower body, I mixed the colors below.

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2-4
The finished look of the base coats. I started a decal freehand on the shoulder at first to mark it’s placement.

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2-5
To create the decals I used Adobe Photoshop. If you’re going for an exsisting bertie colorway, use the magic of the internet to hunt down the appropriate logos or if you have the correlating figure, scan what you’re able to from he packaging itself.
I made various copies of the decals, as well as a few different sizes to give me the most options.

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2-6
To get the snowflake decal I wanted I simply scanned the real Winter Bertie. Nothing fancy, but it worked!

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2-7
To get the correct sizes may take some eyeballing on your part. Print a few different sized logos to help dial in the ones you’ll need.


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2-8
Cut out the paper and temporarily put them in place using some double-sided tape.
Try out different sizes to see which looks the best on your bot.

Thats it for now!

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Coming Soon! Part 3 : Finalize decals

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We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs you’re working on! Send us a shot of your latest custom work with a brief description to radtoyreview@gmail.com. 

Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated whenever we post new Workshops and epic toy reviews!

Until next time!

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THE WORKSHOP – DIY Mini Bertie Custom (PART 1 of 5) by markovengine

It’s been a bit since we’ve updated The Workshop with any new content so I’m incredibly happy to be able to offer the first part of a massive 5 part tutorial series by the extraordinary toy artist/mod, markovengine! Those who hang around the official threeA boards are sure to recognize his fantastic work. His skill at crafting fully realized miniature versions of well known full size bertie colorways is astounding. (You can check some of his stuff here! ) Through this series, you’ll get the step by step and learn from him exactly how to make super detailed mini berties of your very own. (check out our review of mine berties here!)

A massive thanks to markovengine! Rad Toy Review is thrilled to be able to offer this series to you and we truly hope you get something rewarding out of it!

Enjoy!

– Knives

DIY MINI BERTIE CUSTOM PAINT TUTORIAL

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Part 1 : Preparation before painting
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This tutorial is a DIY MINI BERTIE CUSTOM PAINT TUTORIAL.

I don’t  believe I did anything very special.

The steps I use are essentially the same as when someone builds and paints a plastic model.

1-1
First, measure the width, shoulder to shoulder on your mini bertie. It should be about 2.12mm. Remember that number.

Separate the arms from body using the nippers or a saw.

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1-2

Cut them clean and make the cut as close the arm/shoulder as possible.

Detach.

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1-3
Here I filled the chest area with some putty.

It helps to have a smooth surface when applying decals.

This step isn’t required, but makes things easier down the road.

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1-4

At the center of the shaft of the shoulder joint (on both arms and body) drill a small hole.
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1-5
To keep from making a mistake I gradually increase the drill bit size a step at a time to enlarge the hole.

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1-6
The holes should line up and reach around 2.5mm at the body and shoulders.

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1-7
Now you need some sort of rod to run through the holes in the body and attach the arms to. I use cuts of plastic model frames which measure out to 2.5mm.

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1-8

While I used a model frame, it might not be a bad idea to measure what you have available to use as a rod before you start drilling the holes to size on your bertie, just in case you need slightly different sized holes to fit whatever rod have laying around.
Here’s the rod cut from the frame.
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1-9

Left : When we measured the shoulder width it came out to 2.12mm.
Right : Cut a measure the rod so that it will fit the shoulder pieces. Adjust it a little at a time until you have the width at 2.12 mm.
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1-10
Using a metal rasp and some fine grit sandpaper, shave off the chest putty and smooth out the plastic seams. (shown by a red line)

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1-11
Insert the shaft into the body.

Check the position to ensure it’s properly centered and then bond the shaft to the body using super glue.
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1-12
I’ve used more model frame scraps to create handles for each parts. This will be a huge help when painting.
For now, we’re finished with part 1!

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Continues in Part 2 : “Paint body and create decals”!

We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs you’re working on! Send us a shot of your latest custom work with a brief description to radtoyreview@gmail.com. 

Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated whenever we post new Workshops and epic toy reviews!

Until next time!

 

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*REVIEW* 3A Queenie of 7 Bones

INTRO

Up until about eight months ago or so, I wasn’t into PopBot. I really didn’t know anything about it, and of all the 3A toy lines, it was the last wall of my personal resistance. Last year, I decided to get PopBot: Big Beautiful Book from IDW as well as a cool sketch in it from Wood himself. When I got that puppy home I dove head first into the hardcover beast. The world of Ashley Wood’s Popbot is a convoluted, confusing mind screw coupled with gorgeous paintings and sketches. My hope was that I’d develop some sort of appreciation and attachment to its characters. I told myself that if I’d take the time to read and re-read the massive catacomb-like storyline,  I’d glean a bit of real understanding and background of the dramatically illustrated world.

Nope. No idea. None what-so-evah. There’s something in there about a talking cat that sings and sleeps with robot hookers, some robots who want him dead, a blind cowboy that shoots his teeth, Sherlock Holmes waxes wise, Lady Sham is chatting it up with the devil in the wastelands, more robots, a few salt and pepper shake’s worth of Tomorrow Kings, Andy Warhol has his own talk show where he keeps interviewing some rapper dude who keeps killing him… I don’t know. The saga continues, I guess?

The Popbot world is as big, varied and fascinating as it is confusing, silly and unorthodox.  The only thing I took away from reading the Popbot collection other than an even further appreciation for Ash’s skilled brush is that I now have the general knowledge that those characters and their vague stories exist.

But that’s the odd thing. Now that I have that, it somehow manages to be enough to make my ears perk up and my F5’n finger twitchy anytime 3A announces a new Popbot figure. I’m hooked on PopBot. 3A has to be lacing them with something.

Which brings me to 7 Bones, another expansion of the PopBot world. The 3A wiki says, “Seven Bones, stylized “7bones,” is a group of rogue Tomorrow Kings in the Popbot Universe who are the personal guard of Punk King.” 3A has been slowly releasing them over the course of the past year. So far we’ve seen Wasabi, Kyoku and Queenie. Wasabi has been setting the vibe on our shelves since 2011. Kyoku was next in line sales-wise, but due to a production delay, Queenie was actually shipped out first.

So now that all that intro huffa-puff is out of the way, on to talking about Queenie. Read on to learn more about one of the most exciting figures to come out from 3A this year!

PACKAGING

As you can see, Queenie gets the packaging treatment she deserves with a nice painting of her looking stoic on the front. On the back things get traditionally 3A graphic design-y. It’s a nice contrast, shelf worthy for sure.

WHAT’S INCLUDED

Queenie has a tiny array of stuff to fiddle with. Equipped with a staff (a first for any 3A toy!) and a couple of interchangeable hands, she was triple clam shelled together and took a little work to get out. A few spare pegs are included as well.

Also I’m happy to report she comes with a fantastic poster of the cover art with a mini comic on the back. I’m unhappy to report that it appears a blind monkey packed my poster. Instead of neatly folded as they’ve always been in the past, mine came loosely bent together and crinkled. There’s even a few small wear holes where the folds come together. Bummer.

THE BREAKDOWN

The second I got Queenie out of her plastic prison I was sold on her character. As the leader of 7 Bones, she looks appropriately tough in that unrealistic, super slim tough chick way. Her eye patch gives her an air of mystery, while the subtle smirk on her face gives her a sense of confidence. Other than possibly her belt/packs, all her attire is completely new, never used before on any previous 3A figure. The pants in particular set her apart from any other of 3A’s offerings as they’re almost a faux linen material.

Her staff fits into her hands as perfectly as it should. I want to mention that the staff was straight as an arrow. No warping or bends from bad packaging. Huzzah! The second you get her set up with it, you’ll probably lose track of time for a few, putting her in your favorite Donatello pose. I don’t know about you, but it’s been a while since I’ve had a figure with a bo staff.

Queenie is also the recipient of yet another new female body. Ever since 3A updated the tried and true Tomorrow Queen bodies of old, they’ve been messing around with the formula, trying to get the best balance of asthetics and articulation. The older Tomorrow Queens were kind of a pain to pose. Not only did they wear skin tight latex, but their long legs made them wobbly and the opposite of sure-footed. They had a mid thigh joint you could twist around, a very limited knee joint and an ankle joint with a round twisting ankle peg to allow for rotation in most directions. With a good deal of futzing, you could pull of something dynamic, but it wasn’t a very organic process.

3A updated that body when they released Lolli last Christmas. All new leg joints, much better knees, a new torso and thinner arms. You can check our review of her here. They came so close to getting it right, but dropped the ball by changing out the round ankle joint for a square peg. You basically have a figure with much more generous articulation in the legs that should promise you better and more dynamic poses.. but it’s hacked off at the knee by the inability to move the ankle around to get a solid flat footing.

So now we have Queenie. 3A kept the double jointed knees of Lolli and brought back the ball ankle joint. Ah.. that wasn’t so hard, now was it?

Queenie is the first female figure that’s just about as fun to play with as any of your TKs or Adventure Kartel gang. Yes, the ankles are still pretty finicky. You have to press the shoe together to grip the ankle peg so you can twist it to the desired angle. But it’s not difficult at all to get her into some really fun stances. With the bo staff in both her hands, it’s incredibly easy to shift her from one cool pose to the next.

The other hands she comes with are more neutral/relaxed variations. I like that they’re slightly different from one another and not symmetrical copies. They’re useless for holding the staff, but they do add some nice variety when you feel like changing things up.

Speaking of not symmetrical, I might as well broach the subject here. One of the main “complaints” of the new 3A female body is the supposed wonky-ness of its.. breasts. Boob-gate, we’ll call it. Well, Queenie is not lacking in the chestal region by any means, and yes, you can tell they’re not lined up perfectly. I’m of two schools of thought here: My first is the fact that in real life, women’s breasts are unsymmetrical. Now, whether or not Ash and 3A designed them this way on purpose to reflect that is simply a matter of personal opinion, but even for a stylized character, Queenie is more realistic and less barbie doll this way. My second feeling on it is.. this is a toy and I’m simply not going to spend more time talking about a toy’s boobs.

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, check out that thing dangling between her legs!

Made you look! When the teaser pics of Queenie popped up, I thought the cylindrical thing strapped to her belt was a jar of rice wine or something, like an old drunken monkey kung fu legend of old might carry.  Turns out, it’s a giant EMP bomb. I suppose this makes sense due to all the robots the gang has to take on. Still, a rice wine jug with some XXX would have been cool.

As a member of 7 Bones, it’s only natural that I’d want to put her up with Wasabi. The two look great together, though the blues aren’t exactly spot on. It makes me even more excited about the idea of having all seven positioned together. Which at this rate should be sometime in 2014.. ugh.

So what do we have so far? The new articulation is a marked improvement over any previous female figures. The new head/hand sculpts, accessories and clothing make you comfy in the knowledge that you’re legitimately getting a brand NEW character and not a bunch of reused bits and pieces. There’s a lot to like about Queenie.

There’s also a few things that aren’t so fabulous. I already mentioned boob-gate, but only because there’s been some discussion amongst the ranks about them.  However, they don’t bother me. My first real complaint is the equally discussed misaligned/sized eyepatch strap. If it’s a design choice as some argue, it’s a very odd one that simply doesn’t work. If it’s something 3A somehow missed before finalizing her sculpt, I can only ask the question, “How?”. It’s just a bizarre detail that doesn’t kill the cool factor of the character, but those more OCD than me may have a hard time looking at her from some angles thanks to it.

The other complaint comes back to the articulation in the legs. While they’re vastly improved and easier than ever to play with, once again 3A’s knack for adding while subtracting has somewhat shot themselves in the foot. (So many leg/feet analogies I hardly know what to do with myself!)

When they upgraded the female figure for Lolli, giving her double jointed knees and a more forgiving hip joint, they took away her mid thigh joint and stuck her with a square peg at her ankle. It was an upgrade that was nullified by the downgrades. With Queenie they brought back the round ankle peg, but still left out the mid thigh joint. I feel like this was a bad move, especially for a figure that should be as articulated as possible. Some may argue asthetics, but Queenie’s legs are covered up by pants! I’d start trying to push her into a pose and get about 80% there only to realize that’s as far as it’s going to go. It’s still a jump forward of course, but don’t be surprised when you find yourself thinking, “If only I could twist her leg this way just a tiniest bit, she’d be perfect”.

My last issue falls on the shoulders of 3A QC. Early pics of Queenie revealed some terrible peeling and bubbling of the paint on her chest and stomach. From what I’ve read, it’s pretty rare, like shark bites or plane crashes. My Queenie doesn’t suffer from the same disaster those images portrayed, but she has a few odd paint bumps on her chest that are obviously not meant to go there. My instinct is to scrape them off, but I’m sure that would just start a chain reaction of peeling and heartbreak. I’m waiting to hear back from CS to see what my options are. Issues are bound to pop up from time to time and in my history with 3A, I’ve had next to none, but that doesn’t make the bumps go away.

FINAL THOUGHTS

So yes, Queenie is cool. Despite her unique design, I wasn’t incredibly excited about her arrival after being fairly disappointed with Lolli. Seeing how untouched and neutrally posed I generally keep her on the shelf, the thought of having yet another figure that’s a struggle to balance upright didn’t exactly thrill me. I’m happy to report that she was well worth the wait and in fact exceeded my expectations.

She looks great and is loaded with character. The amount of unique poses you should be able to squeeze out of her should make her a stand out addition to your collection. She balances well, she moves for the most part how you’d expect her to, even her neutral hands add appreciated variety to the package.

Queenie is a positive step forward for 3A. I hope they continue to tweak the female body, refine the articulation some more and do something about the uncertainty of the paint app on their rubber torso. Right now, she’s as good as it gets.

Pros:

  • An all new unique character that will stand out from the rest of your collection
  • New female body with enhanced articulation; a big step forward
  • Tons of character squeezed into her tiny frame

Cons:

  • Wish they’d bring back the thigh swivel joint as her articulation still feels inhibited
  • Her eyepatch band, purposeful or not, is mismatched and just looks off
  • Boob-gate? Nah, but some paint issues.

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THE WORKSHOP – MK 2.1 Square by Paul Benson

I’m happy to be able to bring you the step by step process of one of Paul’s most impressive custom projects yet, The MK 2.1 Square. I was blown away when I saw the finished piece and asked Paul if he’d mind putting something together for us to glean a little wisdom from. Grab your least favorite toy, an X-acto blade and some super glue and follow along!

Also, please don’t hurt yourself..

Enjoy!

– Knives

MK 2.1 Square
Although folks may not want to do a conversion like this one, hopefully the techniques I have used may help people to do their own thing. Certainly, by my reading of workshop articles on various websites and magazines, I have learned how to do things over the years.

So I wanted to tweak a MK 2 square into something that might be able to move faster and could be used for reconnaissance, intelligence gathering, spotting for snipers etc.  When in trouble, it could get out of there very quickly.  It would be capable of being out in the field for days and could withstand all weathers.  I toyed with the title of a Mk 2.1 Square.
I decided to buy a second JEA Mk 2 Square to work with, because (i) I wanted the converted square to be Joint Earth Army and (ii) the original would act as reference material for the custom build.  The aim would be to modify it by reducing the size of the head to reduce it’s weight allowing a better leg power to weight ratio.
Although I wanted to reduce the size of the head I still wanted to leave enough of the front to have all the facial features there and retain the full ball joint mechanism inside.  I reckoned I could reduce the width from 75 mm to 45 mm. I was not quite sure by how much I could reduce the height, because of how big the ball socket was, until I opened the head up.
Using a fine marker/pen I drew continuous lines around the head on either side of the face. This would be where the first two cuts would go.  With a hack saw I produced four main pieces that I will bond back together later.  I was only able to remove 10 mm from the height of the head.
The pieces needed to be tidied up with a Dremel and sandpaper before gluing them together.  I realised I may need to strengthen the new structure as I was not sure if the force need to turn the ball joint might break it open.  To do this I used pieces of balsa wood bonded inside with super glue, I then strengthened the joints quite crudely using a glue gun.
The sides were cut to size and then glued on.  Household filler was used to fill all the gaps and then sanded down.  The new dimensions of the head/body are width 45 mm, height 50 mm and length (of side) 70 mm compared to the original MK 2 Square which were, width 75 mm, height 60 mm and length (of side) which was the same.
The scope was made from Evergreen Scale Models strip styrene.  I used two sizes of square section strip to make the structure, one slightly smaller than the other, so that it could be made to pivot. The pivot is just a piece of circular rod styrene.  The eye piece came from my “bits box”.  The lens is just clear styrene sheet cut to size.  The scope was glued to the head before painting.  The eye ring and lens where left off until the Square was finished.  The eye ring was sprayed black.
The conversion was always going to be a JEA Square and by using a JEA MK 2 Square I could use a lot of the square without having to paint the entire thing e.g. the legs, face, fuel tank (I assume it’s a fuel tank), body below the head etc. I would have to paint the parts of the head that had been modified. For the base colour it is always a good idea to spray paint to get a good finish but I needed JEA green!  Not like it’s immediately available amongst the colours in model stores I’ve visited.  I did venture into the realms of using a spray gun a few years back, but the time spent cleaning it was very frustrating.
I therefore elected to use Citadel acrylic paints which I would apply with a broad paint brush to give as smooth a finish as possible.  I made up the JEA green with Citadel acrylic paints (available from Games Workshop stores and hobby shops).  After a bit of trial and error, I ended up mixing mainly Astronomican Grey, with a little bit of Fenris Grey and Snot Green (don’t blame me it was the names on the pots!!).  Other colours could probably be used. Just eyeball it.
Next, it was time to apply the insignia, of which there were only two different ones ‘JEA 80’ and ‘YUMIKO DIV’.  I photographed these on my original Mk 2 Square.  Using Photoshop, I reduced the two insignia in size to better fit the new head.   They were then tweaked using ‘brightness/contrast’, ‘desaturate’ and ‘invert’.  They were printed and cut out with a sharp scalpel. I did need to suspend some of the centres of certain letters by leaving a thin strip of paper acting as a bridge.  I also made a few mistakes, but corrected them with small pieces of masking tape.  Each stencil in turn was placed in position and stuck down with Tamiya masking tape, I used cling film to cover the rest of the square.  Just before spraying I noticed that edges were lifting around some of the letters and numbers. To correct this I used small pieces of Blu Tack, which while not perfect isn’t really a problem as the insignia on ThreeA toys are often broken up to simulate weathering.  I could correct the letters and number later if necessary with white paint.
To apply the insignia I used Humbrol acrylic matt white aerosol spray. Having applied one insignia I had to strip down the masking and apply the next.  I needed to use ‘JEA 80’ twice as it was on both sides of the head.
The next job was weathering.  ThreeA toys can vary in weathering and the second JEA Mk2 Square, which I converted, was more weathered than my original one.  They legs were certainly more brown, so I would have to weather the head and scope to match in with the legs.  Again, I would use Citadel acrylic paints.  I started by applying a thin wash of Dark Flesh (which is a reasonable mid rust colour) mixed with a little Chaos Black. The colour was blended into the white areas of the face.  During this early stage I painted on a ring of black around the eye.  I did this by cutting out a paper stencil, with two circles the inner one being held in place by thin strips of paper.  The stencil, cut to size, was then taped over the face and I then very carefully painted between the circles. When the stencil was removed, where the thin paper strip had been, was painted over.
The edges of the head and scope were stippled with small pieces of coarse sponge dipped in a mixture of Scorched Brown mixed with Chaos Black.  In parts the same was done with grey I mixed from Skull White and Chaos Black to represent paint chips and again with Blazing Orange mixed with a little Dark Flesh to represent rust spots.  A fine paint brush was also used with these three colours to refine and emphasize some of the stippling as well as to pick out the scratches and dents on the sides of the head.  The rust colour was used as wash to run into depressions and as trails from areas here rust might have gathered.
For finishing touches the inside of the scope was painted back and the lens and eye ring glued in place. I also added an eye lens after painting the eye black. I used a punch (see above picture) to cut out a 6 mm disc from shiny coloured plastic, bought as cheap folders for notes.  I got the punches on a well known online auction site, as set of sizes from 3 mm to 8mm, which work for other eye sockets I have used them for.  They will stay in place pretty well if you don’t want to risk permanent change to your 3A toy, but a touch of super glue on the edge will secure them even better.
Thanks for your interest in reading this article.
We hope you enjoyed the latest Workshop. Big thanks to Paul for once again putting this together for us. 
 We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs you’re working on! Send us a shot of your latest custom work with a brief description to radtoyreview@gmail.com. 

Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated whenever we post new Workshops and epic toy reviews!

Until next time!