New epic Workshop by Kid Akira tomorrow! Crazy in-depth! Soak it in you lucky people! 🙂
Category Archives: The Workshop
THE WORKSHOP – Le’ skateboard – by Goatbot/Simon
Once again, Simon/Goatbot/Goatballs/Goaty is back with another not-for-the-weak-knee’d tutorial. This time he’s going to walk us through his process of making his own custom skateboards for 1\6 figs.
Enjoy!
– Knives
- super glue (or crazy glue to the colonials )
- stock card (old cereal packets, birthday cards are ideal )
- exacto knife and sharp scissors
- steel rule
- cutting mat

We hope you enjoyed the Workshop. Big thanks to Simon for taking time away from making amazing customs to write/photograph this up for us!
We’d love to hear from you and check out what kind of customs your working on! Hit us up on Facebook or Twitter pages to stay updated and please let us know what kind of workshops you’d like to see.
Until next time!
THE WORKSHOP – Wee Zombie Bashing Bat – by Goatbot/Simon
Happy Valentine’s Day everyone! If you’re lonely and sad today.. take heart! A new Workshop awaits!
What a treat today is… A little back history first. When I first got into collecting 3A, I remember seeing all these pictures of Tommy Mission figures holding these awesome little baseball bats. They all had different decals, witty scribe.. some had blood splatters, nicks/scratches etc. I ordered my first Tommy fully expecting to have some variant packed in with him. To my surprise, no bat.. just a dumb glowing hand (kidding?). After a smidge of digging I came to learn that these amazing little things were handmade by a fellah who, going completely off his various forum names, seems to have an intense, yet healthy fascination with goats.
Huge thank you to Simon/Goatbot/Goatballs/Goaty for this fantastic workshop! He was kind enough to create not just one, but TWO different tutorials for us! The second we plan to post later in the week. This one is the most complex yet and you get play to play with power tools. Please be safe and don’t poke your eye out kid!
– Knives
- power drill, cordless preferred unless ye have a bench vice or indeed a wood lathe (I use an 18v hitachi cordless impact driver drill)
- fine toothed saw ( gents, mitre etc )
- wood rasp
- small hobby files or a dremel
- sandpaper or better still aluminium oxide cloth 80 , 120, 240 grit should do it
- 12 mm HARDWOOD doweling , available in most hardware stores and model hobby shops. Ye can use lengths of twig, sticks etc but this will make th job way harder..
- electrical tape, medical tape etc ( for the grip )
- paint, pens, decals
- bees wax or spray varnish
- COMMON SENSE
- dust mask
- Well ventilated work space


We hope you enjoyed this Workshop. Check back later in the week as we bring you another from the mighty Goat!
We’d love to hear from you here, on our Facebook or Twitter page. We’d love for you to share with us your own customs. Let us know how we’re doing and what kind of workshops you’d like to see.
THE WORKSHOP – F_SEBS “Rusting with gusto”
Today we have an all new workshop from F_Seb who many of you may be familiar with from his fantastic modeling, painting and character customization work. He’s gonna hold your hand and guide you through the steps he took to get some killer looking realistic rust fx on his BA custom bot. (Which had me asking, where’s the tutorial on THAT?) I know you’ll enjoy it and I think you’ll come out the other side a little more enlightened. Cheers!
– Knives
Hi all!! Before starting this custom, I had never successfully created any rusty effects as we can see on some tutorials. I’d read and tried the “salt layer” trick once a few months ago and the result was bad. I couldn’t get it to look right. I screwed up somewhere along the way I think. So on a whim, I decided to try a similar technique, but this time with sand..
Why?? I don’t really know why. At first, I didn’t think the result would be what I desired, but in the end it didn’t seem like such a bad idea. I’d made a few modifications to this little Armstrong, so it was necessary to paint it to make it more seamless.
1.I used spray paint (mtn94 is my favorite, low pressure) for the base layer. I wanted a brown color as you can find in rust. I waited a little bit until it’s completely dry and used hairspray to stick the sand. The sand I used is the same of that you might find in a Japanese garden for interior design, it’s very thin and perfect for the scale. I did several spots of hairspray and then applied sand to it. You can choose to put as much sand as you like. Variety of amount here will give you variety in texture later.
2. Once the sand is fully dry in place, I painted another layer this time in light grey. This is the color the bot might have been when it was fresh off the factory floor/clean. Note: If you have different base colors for different parts of the bot (ie: red arms, blue legs) just paint those parts accordingly.
3. Alright, let’s go to make-a-the-rust, or something like that!! So, here I used only two colors, Vallejo Clear Orange (70.956) and Liquitex black mars to get various browns and oranges. I then stamp on some more sand with a flat pencil to make irregular spots as well as do some dry brushing on the edge of the rust zone. Don’t forget to do random mixes of paint, it’s more beautiful with nuances.
If you’re wondering why I started by painting the whole bot brown in the 1st step, you should start to see the reason for it here. As the sand gets knocked off while you dry brush and stamp you’ll notice under the color is the nice rusty brown giving the effect of rusted steel. You can knock bits and pieces of sand off where you please to make little spots of under painted brown rust. Again more texture, more variety.
4. OK, here I use Tamiya paint X26 orange clear and the same mix of paints I did for the rust spots (Vallejo Clear Orange (70.956) and Liquitex black mars) To get the runny rust look, I take a round pencil and I drop a tiny bit of water to make “roads” running down the body of the bot. Immediately afterwards I drop a gout of very diluted paint. It will follow the road, leaving just a little color. Redo that step until it gives you the desired effect. Note: starting with a clear water “road” instead of simply using very diluted paint ensures that the drip goes where you wish without any risk of it running over something you didn’t intend it to.
5. Now you can do some dry brush with a metallic paint (for me Tamiya chrome silver) which gives a nice scratched metal effect. You can also experiment with different ideas that mimic real world aged metal. Burn spots, oil leaks, etc.. Apply your paints in light layers and build them up until you’ve reached the desired look.
We hope you enjoyed the workshop. You can check out more of F_Sebs amazing work on his blog: http://sebscustoms.blogspot.com/. We’d love to hear from you here, on our Facebook or Twitter page. Let us know how we’re doing and what kind of workshops you’d like to see.
Happy rusting folks 🙂

















